If you go

What: Booyah Wings and CafeWhere: 8780 Rivers Ave., Suite 318, North CharlestonHours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m., Monday-SundayFor more info: 553-5354

Long live the French dip.

And long live Booyah Wings and Cafe, one of North Charlestonís newest restaurants.

Back in an April Lunch Counter, we told you about JGJís and its famous French dip sandwich as concocted by Kevin Ryan, a veteran of North Charleston area kitchens best-known for his work at the old Palmetto Pub & Brew House on Ashley Phosphate Road.

Sadly, JGJís closed its doors, but Ryan has moved on, or, more fittingly, moved over, to Booyah as a co-owner.

The restaurant sits just yards away from JGJís, taking up a corner nook of the Piggly Wiggly shopping center on Rivers Avenue

Formerly occupied by the Filipino Cafe & Bakery, Booyah has been freshened up and decluttered; the restaurantís presence bolstered by a large, electric blue stuffed toy bulldog keeping watch by the front door.

As for Ryanís French dip ($8.99), itís similar to his work at JGJís, the meat hand-shaved, the melted provolone perfect, the roll a toasty golden brown and the au jus addictive. Itís so good itís about the only item on the menu without a description ó it really wouldnít do it justice.

Of course, the wings also deserve consideration, available in numbers of six ($4.99) to 100 ($62.99), and in both wet and dry varieties with such flavors as roasted garlic and red pepper, spicy sweet chili, garlic butter and more typical choices like hot, ranch, barbecue and Caribbean jerk.

Big half-pound specialty burgers ($6.49-$7.49), large salads ($5.49-$7.99), and reuben and club sandwiches ($7.99) also warrant mention, though itís the French dip that keeps me coming back, no matter the location.